Harvest 2007 news

2007 has been one of the most unusual growing seasons for a decade or more; April was exceptionally warm but with rain as well, a combination that got the vines off to a good, early start and carpeted the Dentelles with a colourful display of wild flowers.

The rain continued from time to time in June and July, quite a change from the arid conditions of recent years, but one that kept us concerned to protect the vines from fungal infection.

While August was a little cooler than recent years the blanket of cloud and rain that covered most of France never really encroached on the Gigondas skies, so by the second half of September the grapes were ready to pick.

< Picking Syrah high in the stony vineyard terraces of Les Dentelles

The work throughout the summer, to keep the vines growing healthily and producing good fruit, seems to have paid off because the quality and flavour of the juice is excellent, and almost against expectations, the size of the harvest is good, so all the tanks at Moulin de la Gardette winery are now full of fermenting wine.

Punching down the cap of grapes and skins into the juice to improve extraction of flavour and colour, and release the fermentation gasses >

< Checking the temperature of the fermenting juice. If necessary, the must is cooled so that the delicate flavours and aromas are not lost.

The juice is flowed over the fruit cap to better integrate the flavours and admit a little air that is needed by the yeasts >

Loading the press

After 3 to 4 weks of maceration the new wine is run off and the grapes loaded into the press - don't worry we wear nice clean boots while stomping about in the tanks, no sweaty feet!

The vineyard in autumn

Prestigious French wine magazine 'Tast Pro' rates Moulin de la Gardette #1!

The April edition of 'Tast Pro' carried the results of a tasting that included almost every Gigondas wine available and gave top marks to Moulin de la Gardette. To read what the reviews said in the French original click here, otherwise read on for my 'best efforts' translation:

"MOULIN DE LAGARDETTE

Jean Baptiste Meunier makes wine from the 9.5 ha. family holding that is made up of 24 separate vineyard parcels. His approach is close to organic, no herbicides are used and only the indigenous wild yeasts that have evolved naturally to suit local conditions. The wines are often austere in their youth, but they age extremely well developing a very seductive aromatic bouquet. The Tradition 2002, despite all the difficulties of the vintage, is incredibly charming and shows all the expertise of the winemaker.

Gigondas Ventabren, red 2005

Tank sample. Balanced and fresh, a delightful wine, well constructed. It has benefited well from the year. Great wine. Charming and well balanced. Good length. It will age superbly. 17/20

Gigondas Tradition, red 2004 (11,50 €)

80% grenache, 10% cinsault, 10% mourvèdre. 10% aged in wood (in old barrels). This comprises two thirds of the production. Bottled in June 2006. Very powerful nose, warm, lots of cocoa flavour, with hints of artichoke and fresh hay, very pleasant. Cherry jam. Pleasing and refined. The mouth is structured, fat, with a beautiful aromatic palette and pleasing final freshness. The wine is not hot, it is fat, but powerful. The tannins are smooth. Lots of body. The wine has not yet recovered completely from bottling. 16/20

Gigondas Ventabren, red 2004 (20 €)

(Ventabren = where the wind blows well, in Provencal) 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault. Aged one year in wood (100% barriques, between 4 and 8 years old). This represents one third of the production. Bottled in June 2006, after 18 months of maturing. Lightly filtered. Deeper, more candied, fruitier nose. An astonishing touch of pineapple juice! Many sweet spices (cinnamon). The mouth is creamy, very smooth, with truly pleasing charm. Long and complex. A very refined wine, which is already tempting to taste. 15.4%, but the alcohol is well integrated. Generous body. 17.5/20

Gigondas Tradition, red 2003 (11,50 €)

Totally polished. Toffee nose, some tea, herb tea, stewed fruit. Complex and very refined. One senses the touch of the vintage. The mouth is rich and voluptuous, with tannins present but quite softened. A beautiful plummy finish. Lots of blended aromas. A very good wine. Notes of age, but no sign of oxidation. I adore it. More naturalness and lightness that the Ventabren in this year! 16.5/20

Gigondas Ventabren, red 2003 (20 €, nearly all gone)

Nose deeper and more complex than the Tradition. The flavours remain very fresh. The mouth is smooth, creamy, with firm tannins but perhaps a little drier than the simple Tradition. The ending is less complex, less harmonious. I prefer the Tradition in 2003! And the price difference plays in favour of the latter. 15.5/20

Gigondas, red 2002 (13 €)

2002 was a unique vintage. Hail in May, rain in August, then fog. Harvest at the end of September. Grenache and mourvèdre, hardly any syrah or cinsault. Only 40% of the harvest was gathered. No wood. Well developed colour and clarity. The nose is a little foxy. Very spiced (pepper, peony). Gingerbread. The nose sharper than other richer years. The mouth is spiced, tight, but is very nice. Atypical for the domaine, but masterly given the year. Beautiful aromatic palette. For the price, it's a lovely wine With a little air, the toasty notes revive. Lots of charm, despite its defects (foxiness). 15.5/20

Gigondas, red 1998

In two barriques for 8 years, topped up with the next year, following the 'principe de la solera' (3 litres per year). It will be bottled in 2006. The first is very chocolatey, with a hint of volatility. 15.5/20

The second is more toasty, with more aromatic charm, but perhaps less depth. Really astonishing! 16/20"